Day 85

It was an early morning as I left before the other two on my way to the Mt Elbert trailhead. I watched the sun rise over the town of Twin Lakes as I slowly climbed towards the trailhead. Mt Elbert is the high point of Colorado and is not on the continental divide trail, but well worth the side trip. It reaches 14,440 feet making it the third tallest mountain in the states. I summits the second tallest, Mt Whitney in California, last year along the PCT. This is my 8th Highpointer and 8 is my lucky number. We took the south Mt Elbert trail towards the top which is a 4,850 foot climb in 5.6 miles. Paperweight caught up to me at the trailhead where we hydrated and ate a few snacks. A large group of men started there hike with no packs on and I was jealous. Our packs were full with a little over three days of food. Chipmunk choose to stash her pack off the trail and take the north route up to the peak. The two of us began the ascent. Within ten minutes we had passed the large group of men as they were panting and stared at our large packs wishing us luck. We would pass over 50 people on our way up. It was a Saturday and the mountain way full of families and even lots of dogs which was a bit surprising to me. I have never hiked this steep of a climb with a large pack right out of town. Once we hit tree line it was unreal. The views back to town and the large amounts of people climbing ahead of us was surreal. The trail has multiple paths due to people not staying on the main route which is disappointing. I felt very strong today as we only took one break for water along the way. It was less than a five minute break and we were moving uphill again. We were passed by two people. One was a man in his 70s jogging up the mountain and another looked like a marathon runner with a tiny pack and headphones. I love the challenge of a steep climb and could feel my muscles burning. I’m one strong woman and thru hiking has proved this to me in so many ways. I couldn’t imagine being here 4 years ago and now I don’t know what else would make me any happier. As we neared the top, we could see the crowd celebrating. It was another unforgettable life memory and the reason I choose to thru hike. 360 degree views of other 14,000 footers and I could see for miles. All of the places we have hiked and all the places we have to conquer. We celebrated with a cardboard sign and some guys offered me a triple stuffed Oreo. It was a quick photo moment and then we began the descent down the south side where we could reconnect to the CDT. This route is certainly more difficult and I was disappointed to watch people slide on their butts downhill running any trail work that had been done. Yes it was super steep, but with hiking poles there was no need to butt slide. It was also nerve racking with so many people coming up as well. We ended up in a line at times before they would move to let us by. Next time I hike Mt Elbert it will be on a weekday and without a full pack. What a great hike! We connected to our trail following a line of hikers and stopped at a stream to filter and rehydrate. There were so many people around we decided to get back to our trail and away from the parking lot a bit for our lunch break. It was quite the feast and shoe off break. We ended up hiking many more miles in the trees this afternoon. We did almost a 25 mile day including the highest mountain in Colorado. I’m not too sure why maybe we were just so pumped. It was an unforgettable day and we set up our huge three person tent and slept very well.​number 8… 42 to go

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Day 86

The hiking was a bit easier today without a 14,000 footer to conquer. At a road crossing we came to a sign that said “Caution historic military weapons usage area.” We did it find any weapons along our climb uphill. We entered the Holy Cross Wilderness area and enjoyed every moment. Time for serious hiking and 25 mile days. We took short breaks along the way to hydrate and snake as usual. On an uphill climb, we watched a man with a huge pack fall down hard. We rushed up to him and Dr Paperweight checked him out and questioned him on how he was feeling. He was embarrassed, but got back up and hiked on looking strong. Hope he is alright. Along the way, we came across a swing. We both sat down together and relaxed. What more could a girl want? I’m a sucker for a swing! We crossed through a parking lot where we could hitch into Leadville, but I’ll save that town for a future Colorado Trail hike. The next few miles were flat and zoomed by until we crossed the highway. We came to a “Hazardous asbestos” sign warning us to stay on the trail. This was followed up by an old concrete bunker that was a military site and warned of explosives. Again, we stayed on the trail! We filled up at a stream with a gushing waterfall above us. I found a campsite slightly off trail where we set up and had a restful evening after another 25 miler.

Day 87

We got an early start as the sun rose. Someday we are really good at getting started and other days not so much. We had a long climb up to the top of Kokomo Pass at 12,022 feet. It was beautiful with wildflowers everywhere and lots of CT hikers just waking up. This was another one of my favorite passes in Colorado. We hiked with Thirsty Boots along the way as well. On the climb down, I saw so many huge marmots and pika playing. The trail dropped down slowly and passed a beautiful cabin that can be rented out. I would love to live there. My favorite encounter was two women in there 60s. One woman had never slept in a tent before and the other was hiking the CT. She was so excited to be trying something new. It’s never too late! At a water break, we looked at our map and realized that we would pass Copper Mountain in a few miles. We thought it was a little farther off trail, but it was only like .1 to a restaurant. So we packed up quickly and zoomed downhill towards the ski resort. We took a table outside of the first restaurant we saw and suddenly Chipmunk walked out with a new hiker Crocs. She had did some alternates and got ahead of us. So we moved inside to the bar to join them! Crocs met 5 thru hikers today and all of New Mexico he met less than that. He was so excited to see hikers again. A nice guy! Thirsty Boots joined us as well at the bar, but he is efficient meaning he ate, paid, and got back on trail in under an hour. We paid our bill and headed outside when another bad storm came in. We missed the first batch inside at the bar. Using the Internet we were able to see it would pass over soon. So Crocs bought a six pack and we relaxed under an awning of a closed restaurant. We spent an hour here before it cleared and decided to climb out of the base of the mountain. I was so full and happy as we crossed the busy highway and began climbing. I began to fell tired as Paperweight and I looked for a campsite Croc encouraged us to keep going with some jams. We camped at 11,300 feet. Crocs, who hikes in crocs, wanted to get up and over the mountain, but he stopped to finish his last beer and hangout. It was a fun day of food, hiking our miles, and a new hiker.

Day 88

We awoke before the sunrise and was rewarded with the first daylight to warm us up on our uphill climb. We looked down at Copper Mountain before getting a whole new view of Breckenridge and Frisco. We began rushing down to the road to enjoy most of our day in town. We came across people pushing their mountain bikes uphill jealous that we were going downhill. If you only knew how much we have climbed. You could see the highway for miles as we continued to wait for bike rides to ride past us. We rushed to the road then walked down a paved bike path towards the free public bus stop. I had a mail drop in Breckenridge waiting for me so we took two bus rides to the PO where we ran into Crocs. They also had a $1 taco deal at the grocery store so we hit that up. Lodging is cheaper in Frisco and they have a Walmart so we jumped on the bus and headed to Frisco. We did our shopping then walked a nice bike path to the Snowshoe Lodge in downtown. The usual chores of showers and reorganizing got done. We went to brewery for dinner with Chipmunk, Phil, and Julia before spending the night lying in bed resting. Town days go so fast and I would love to take a whole day adventuring in town. 

Day 81

We checked out exactly at 11 and began hitching. CC stayed behind to fix her cell phone so it was the two boys and me. We walked a little ways before a woman offered to take us to Walmart. We then got a ride with a raft guide who went out of his way to drop us off at a gas station that would lead to the pass. It took a little longer, but a guy turned around and rescued us. He hiked the PCT back in the 90s and was heading up the pass to then go play in the San Juans for a few days. His Pct experience was much more wild than it is these days. He dropped us off and we had to get more food at the store. Around 2, three of us wandered out of the Monarch Crest Store and towards the highway. The trail walks the road for a short period of time before you cross three lanes of traffic and begin switch backing up from the road. I hiked with Nightwatch out of town up towards the ski mountain. The trail follows access roads to the mountain as I imagined what it would look like in the winter. The trail was steep up the rocky road, but we just talked the miles away before splitting up when I had to pee. He is a super fast hiker and we had a long uphill on an exposed ridge. The wind was whipping as well as I moved slowly uphill. The views continue to impress as expected. Some of the rocks were pretty slippery and I slid a few times. I made it to the high point surrounded by mountains topping 13,000 feet and sat down. I enjoy town stops, but moments like this is why I hike. Paperweight joined me ten or so minutes later. We soaked in the moment, beauty, and appreciate our current lifestyle. It was a steep downhill towards a lake where Nightwatch was waiting. If we didn’t need to worry about the miles, I would of camped here. The three of us hiked the rest of the evening miles together passing a dam and dipping farther into the trees. We came to a bridge that said it was out and not to use. We used it with caution as I went first. Check out the picture below. We found over 15 tents set up near this river all CT hikers. We need their guidebook to know where not to plan to camp. One hiker said there was one tent spot near her so the three of us moved along. We choose to follow the trail not a dirt road which took longer. We found what appeared to be a parking space and set up for the tent. This 3 person tent is ridiculously big! Four people could sit inside comfortably and play games. It set up easily and Chipmunk arrived to laugh at the size of it as well. The four of us enjoyed dinner together before a restful night. 

Day 82

The morning miles continued on a gravel road past old mining cabins and property. Some neat log homes still stand while others are simply rotting logs. There was one beautiful cabin that is still maintained and I would later walk past property for sale while taking a picture of the real estate sign. The road ended and connected to a trail that climbed up around a nice lake and stream. The four of us took a nice snack break next to stream looking up at the pass we needed to climb. I left first listening to podcasts uphill. You reach the pass to see a whole new landscape. It never gets old. I switchbacked down and chatted with a guy out fishing in one of the lakes. The trail reconnected to a dirt road for a little while before coming to a trailhead parking lot. The main attraction is the alpine tunnel which the CDT does not pass thru unfortunately. But the trail follows an old railroad track that was used in the late 1880s for many years. One spot was where a train overturned. It was easy walking with a few remnants of the rail left behind. I took a break where the railroad used to be snacking as the other three joined me. After lunch, it was neat to see how they had built the trail around rock cliffs. I bumped into Phil and Julia who had just woke up from a short nap. They are fast hikers and can afford to take naps along the way unlike me. I only kept up for a bit before they left out ahead like usual. Simply more stunning views, wildflowers, birds soaring and singing to enjoy. It was a beautiful day! Colorado is stunning! We had an option to stay on the CDT or take a road that would pass a lake, privy, and campground. If we followed the trail, we would have to camp above tree line and that freaks some people out. I wished I had my own tent on this section because majority ruled and we took the road. I hated it the moment we got on it. Hoards of dirt bikes, ATVs, and jeeps kicked up dust. My ankles and knees were sore as well. I walked alone slowly climbing up and up. The views were still beautiful. The best part was three weasels playing in a tree for me. Never seen them up close in the wild before. They are funny creatures. We made it to the privy which was a nice treat before we climbed onto a trail that had old CDT markers since this is the old route. We found a campsite a little ways up, set up, ate, and off to bed. 

Day 83

I hate being off trail and wasn’t in a great mood this morning. I was dragging and to make matters worse my shoulder was killing me. I’m usually happy most days, but today was a tough one. Still uphill climbing along a gravel road for miles as I killed time with podcasts. Once I got above tree line I could see for miles and found it more enjoyable. Then of course the trail quickly dropped back into the trees. We finally connected back to the trail to see CDT markers again and lots of CT hikers as well. We had begun the climb up to Lake Ann Pass. Stunning! We had seen a picture of a nasty cornice that people were using rope to get over it a month or so ago. The sun stayed out all day and we cruised up the switchbacks. Yes there was still a cornice, but it was quick and easy to climb up and over. We were rewarded with views of the lake and more marmots and pika playing on all the rocks. Downhill we went looking for Chipmunk in the distance and not seeing her. You can see ahead about 2-4 miles often in this section of Colorado. I love this type of hiking. We kept hiking as the sun had already set looking for the perfect campsite for the three person tent. We found one tucked under the trees and set up quickly. We had a quick snack and climbed into the tent for warmth. Happy to be half a day out of town!

Day 84

We walked over a bridge and found chipmunk set up .2 from us. We had easy walking for the first bit of the day and since it was too late to cook last night we planned to cook at the next stream. We found Phil and Julia hanging out there and we joined them. Rice at 8am is a bit strange, but it hit the spot. We began the climb up Hope Pass and the first mile was super steep. You start out down in the forest and slowly make your way towards the pass that you can not see. Lots of CT hikers coming down as the trees opened up and I could see the switchbacks leading to the top. I admired a heard of elk somehow walking along a steep rocky slope. Also, the marmots and pikas were chatting and the sun was shining. We made it up to top of Hope Pass to see the small town of Twin Lakes before us. We met a nice CT hiker so we chatted with him a long time and he asked lots of questions. It was a beautiful spot, but I wanted food in town. We began the steep downhill and I kept saying I’m glad we aren’t going south. This is a steep and long climb in this direction. My knees felt it. We passed ruins of old cabins and possible mining sites. It rained for a total of ten minutes when we were back in the trees. I managed to twist the same ankle twice really badly! I was scared my trip was over, but my body is tough now. I sucked it up and kept walking a bit slower though. You can walk a highway for a while or cut through a swampy river area. Of course we choose the cut hoping the river wouldn’t be too high. I don’t take off my shoes anymore for fords so I just pushed along against a decent current until I reached the other side. It was nice cold clear water. The next bit was an old road with huge puddles and no way around so my feet were filled with mud and maybe even tiny water bugs. We reached the road and walked along the shoulder of the paved road towards town. Jaz was hanging out at the table outside the tiny store in town. I got my mail drop from their storage bin outside and looked at all my goodies. We then went to the restaurant at the inn across the road. This inn used to be an old brothel and there is information in each room about the girl who worked the room. The place was booked solid and too pricy anyway for our hiker budget. We each ordered a burger and he shared his soup with me as we relaxed inside. We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting in front of the store organizing our packs with food, charging our phones, and enjoying each other’s company. Thirsty Boots joined us 5 as well talking about all of his hikes and various people he has met along the way. It was also bittersweet since Nightwatch has decided to head up to Canada and hike the GDT which is still the Rockies. We also enjoyed a last beer together before bidding him farewell. Paperweight is now outnumbered as he hiked out of town with myself and Chipmunk. We climbed up an old road winding around the mountain and soaking in a sunset over Twin Lakes. We camped at an established site with a teepee like stick structure in the middle. We all went to bed eager to climb Mt Elbert in the morning. I also fell asleep dreaming of opening a hostel in Twin Lakes. Anyone want to help me fund it? Hehe 

Day 77We had to go back for the breakfast deal at Poker Alice’s. We ended up sitting on the couch until 11 at the hostel when one of the guys staying there drove us all back to the trail in Lucky’s truck. Pretty sure he had never drove a standard before or it had been a very long time. Five of us were in the back of the truck as Nightwatch rode shotgun. I wasn’t sure we would make it as we winded up the roads and he he almost stalled out ton many times to could. Phil joked that he should just drive the truck. We luckily all survived! We crossed the highway and connected back to the trail heading upward as usual. I wasn’t feeling well. Maybe too many beers, too much time in town making me town soft, or just so many miles in the last three years. The boys were chatting together and I walked along taking my time. The sun was shining and perfect hiking weather. We climbed up and up finally leaving the trees to a pass. I could see for miles in all directions. Met a few CT hikers getting ready to hitch into town and loving their hike so far. Paperweight hiked with me from the pass on as we talked the miles away. We took a water and snack break at a stream as Chipmunk passed by. We would not see any of them the rest of the day or all of tomorrow. I really wasn’t feeling up for a tough climb to end the day so we camped before it. We watched two pikas play in a stone pile near our campsite before setting up. It was a nice evening so we relaxed outside before climbing into our cozy two person tent. At least we made it out of town today. 

Day 78

We got on trail early to begin the uphill climb. We ran into a trail maintainer group that works on the Colorado Trail. We thanked them before continuing the climb. It wasn’t too bad and the miles passed quickly. Still snowy passes, but they are at most ten to twenty steps in snow before hitting the well traveled trail. The views were spectacular as always with huge 14,000 footers staring at us. We choose to skip a side trail up one of them and stay on the CDT. After the climb, the trail dipped down as usual into the bushes as we hurried along. We entered a cow grazing section and I managed to step right into fresh pile of cow shit. Whoops! We came across a bear can near the trail and we checked it out. It said trail magic on it and was full of pain pills, band aids, snacks, and lots of other essentials. We took a few things and closed it back up. We met two people who hiked AT same year as us. They were nice guys and bit exhausted from their CT hike. One said he will never do the CDT. We forded a river to be attacked by mosquitos. After I cooked, I couldn’t handle it so I just packed most of it up and kept going. They were unrelenting. I moved along with wet feet and horrible mosquitos attacking me. We walked along a stream before a sharp uphill where we choose to camp alongside a gravel road. It was a pleasant desert like sunset surrounded by sage. It was just the two of us going North today and over 10 CT hikers going south. 

Day 79

We woke up earlier than usual and got on trail quickly. It was mostly a gravel road walk to start the day so quick miles. We managed to catch up with Phil, Julia, and Chocolate Chipmunk. Waking up early has its benefits. We also met Thirst Boots who is 62 and on his way to earning his double triple crown. The two of us took a break meaning everyone got ahead of us again. We were on the lookout for a war monument named Soldierstone. We found it after a bushwhack through marsh land. One of the most peaceful and well designed monument. “In memory of long wars lost and the soldiers of Vietnam.” As you walk on the outside of the main monument, there are various plaques in different languages with quotes about war. Such a peaceful spot full of mementos of fallen soldiers. I’m very glad we took the side trip to this spot. We had heartfelt discussions about the realities of war and especially the type of war men fought many years ago. I am forever grateful to all who serve to protect our rights, but I want to live see a world of no war. I can dream! The two of us enjoyed the next few miles just cruising along. A few spots of the trail is accessible to dirt bikes and they sure do destroy the trail by leaving huge tracks and destroying the well groomed trail. The only benefit is they carry chainsaws to cut the down trees so I guess I can’t be too angry. We came out from the woods to a clearing where we saw a huge cloud of smoke from a wildfire near Denver. Scary sight to see. We continued walking towards a cabin that is a bit off trail. We had to pass a heard of cows, but it was waiting for us empty. It is part of a snowmobile trail and used more often in the winter. We each had a raised metal bed to sleep on and a table inside. The best part were chairs. We were able to cook outside and relax in chairs waiting cows graze. We have a home for the night. Chipmunk showed up as the sun was setting so we put up the third raised bed and it was cozy, warm, and dry inside. What a great place to spend a night with two of the best people.

Day 80

I got up and got moving quickly. Without needing to take down a tent the morning chores go quickly. I left first listening to a few podcasts climbing up a gravel road before it turned into a trail. Lots of remnants of old log cabins and possible mining operations dot the landscape. I checked out another shelter we had considered spending the night and was pleased we hadn’t. I climbed up above tree line before taking a break and waiting for Paperweight. The two of us cruised along the divide together finally seeing the highway that leads to town. We ran into over thirty mountain bike riders and lots of day hikers as well in the last five miles to the road. It was insane how many times we had to step off trail. We could see the road and almost the store. I just wanted to get there. I saw a box of cosmic brownies under at CDT sign so I opened it up and ate one! I was as so hungry. We headed into the little store at the top of the divide called the Monarch Crest Store. There is a ski mountain here as well as tourists ride to the top of the divide for $10 or so. No thanks I’ll just walk. The store had a museum section, lots of souvenirs, lots of animals mounted and displayed in the wildlife section. We went to the little food section where I ordered a pretzel with cheese and mistakenly bought a low calorie Gatorade. It was heaven here. Tourists. coming and going spending money on little gifts and kids buying rocks to add to their collection. A few people asked what we were doing as we told them. Lots of shocked faces! We spent about an hour inside before standing on the road hitching. There was an offer for just one so Chipmunk took it and we continued to hitch. An interesting fellow rescued us as we crammed into his two door truck he just bought yesterday. He had just left the shop having hit a deer last night. Bad luck I’d say. He went a little out of his way to drop us off in Salida. We checked into a hotel before getting a message from Nightwatch saying he was staying down the road at a much cheaper place. We went back to the desk and cancelled the room then walking towards the cheap hotel. Who did we find there as well… Phil and Julia. We waited for the owners to return to check into our room. It was the usual chores as Chipmunk was up town at Walmart. We split the room with her and a little before 5 headed into town with Nightwatch. We stopped at the PO where I first saw the three person tent Paperweight has. It was huge! Almost three times the size of the one we have now. It weighs about 4 1/2 pounds! I don’t know how it is going to work out, but we will give it a try. We then wandered into downtown to a pizza/ brewery where we met up with Phil and Julia. It was called Moonlight and had a band going as well. We sat outside under an umbrella ordering beers then food. Delicious meal and great company followed by a resupply at the grocery store. It was a long walk with groceries back to the hotel. We lounged in bed relaxing and watching junk tv as usual. It was a mellow night and good town day! Nice to have other thru hikers around!

Day 69

We all slept in until 8am in the most comfortable bed so far on trail. We borrowed the bikes and did a run to the post office then a food truck nearby. I had a delicious meal to give me strength for the hike out of town. Around 11, the three of us were hitching and within ten minutes we were riding back to Wolf Creek Pass. Lots of tourists taking photos at the sign so we took a few too then crossed the busy road avoiding the semis and huge RVs. I have 7 days of food in my pack along with an ice axe and microspikes. It takes some effort to throw it on my back. We began the first uphill climb into the San Juans. Epic views and wildflowers galore. We entered the Weminuche Wilderness which I’m told is one of the most beautiful places in the country. The first day sure did impress me! The trail was nicely maintained heading up and down various mountains onward to the next one in sight. Small ponds and lakes surrounded by rock boulders of varying size. At the higher elevations, marmots ran gracefully on the rocks as the pika squeak on top of rocks. Dark clouds loomed most of the afternoon. As we began the last big climb of the day, the thunder was booming so CC, PW, and I hid under some pine trees. They both cooked dinner as we stayed dry waiting out the storm. I left first continuing uphill and out of the trees to the beautiful views above tree line where I could see the trail for miles. As j reached the top and began descending the sun shone through the clouds giving me a special moment that took my breath away. I cruised along talking to the marmots and pikas with a huge smile and a full heart. These are the days I love. Little snow on the trail and cruising above tree line. I headed down where I found a campsite somewhat sheltered in the trees and began to cook dinner. They showed up a little later as we all set up camp. What a great day and we had hiked 15.2 miles out of town. I fell asleep warm next to Paperweight as we were both eager to see what tomorrow would bring. 

This may be my favorite picture ever! The beauty after a storm! ❤️

Day 70

Another beautiful morning hike walking above the tree line most of the time before dipping down to climb back up. Lots of marmot, pika, and elk everywhere. We spent most of the day staring up at the sky waiting for a storm to strike. We put in some good miles before the cold rain and thunder storm hit. We jumped over a huge snow drift and into the trees. We waited an hour shivering next to each other getting slightly wet as hail bounced down as well. So cold for the end of June! We had to keep moving knowing we couldn’t sleep here. The sky is tricky to decipher and we are usually wrong. We began the ridge walk along the actual divide as the clouds grew darker. Chipmunk emerged from a side trail where she had been hiding during the thunder. We zoomed as fast as we could along the rocky terrain having to get over this section. The rain turned to hail that bounced off of us. Painful! We walked in the storm for a while before deciding it was too risky so we bailed down the side of the ridge towards a patch of trees. The three of us huddled together as hail and snow turned the ground into a wet and messy slush. We debated our options and decided to call it for the day. We found flat terrain a little ways away and set up our tents on top of the hail. So glad I’m using a blow up sleeping pad this year and sharing a tent. I changed into dry clothes and got into my sleeping bag quickly. We were both too cold to cook so we just smacked and cuddled to keep warm. What a wild day in the San Juans. Today is the last day of June… Let’s hope that July is warmer. Day 71

It continued to rain as we cuddled in our tight quarters in our two person tent. The sky looked horrible so we did not get out for a long time. We drifted back to sleep for a bit then snacked the morning hours away. I think it was after 10:30 when we finally emerged to sun coming out. We packed up our wet tent as the hail and snow had melted. We climbed back up to the trail rubbing against wet bushes as I tried to warm up. We were lucky as the sun graced us with her presence for even tough to do a tricky section. The views were unreal as we switchbacked up a trail that I didn’t notice was even there. We turned the corner to see the famous knifes edge staring at us with still a few snowy passes. I waited for PW to catch up as I began getting nervous. He does a wonderful job calming me down. It was careful stepping and we crossed the first two passes easily. The next one had no prints in the snow and it looked like going down off the trail onto the loose rocks would be the best bet. I made it down a little ways before a panic attack set in and I felt like I would fall down the rocks to the bottom. He took his time and slowly made it back to the trail. I tried so hard to keep going, but I was so fearful as my hiking poles slid out of my hand. I tried to calm down and he said encouraging words, but I was frozen on the rocks. He took off his pack and came back for me. He hugged me, took my pack, and slowly led me to safety. What would I do without him? Maybe I would of quit a long time ago back before we bailed to Platoro. The next few passes were easy as well as I reminded him I don’t do well on rocks. I should of just pushed through the snow. We made it safety as it began to storm again. It was a cold rain where I couldn’t get warm at all. We pushed on wanting to get back to tree line. We passed two tents in an open field, but went into the trees around 5 calling it a day after doing under 10 miles for the day. We set up in the rain and crawled in. It was wonderful to put on dry warm clothes and snack in the safety of the tent. Today was a scary and short day. I’ve only had one panic attack in my life and this was the second. I hope it won’t happen again, but I had a feeling…. We went to bed very early as the rain finally stopped for the day. 

Knifes edge! Pictures don’t do it justice.storm coming after we finished the edge

I survived today with a little help!

Day 72

Today we were able to put in the miles. It was not raining when we started, but I was chilly. After a bit of the uphill I took off a layer. We had a short break in the sun before the clouds passed over and we hurried on. Water is flowing meaning waterfalls cascading down form the rocks. I could see Chipmunk over a mile ahead of me around a curve. Everything is blooming and the colors are stunning. Snow piles also dot the landscape. We took a snack break to dry out everything while we could. After our long drying break, we began to pack up as the rain cloud came overhead. So we put on all our rain gear again and headed down towards a meadow. The meadows are wet and we headed towards a raging river. By following the trail you come to water chest deep and no way to cross. We saw other footprints leading to a spot where you can jump across. I made it and quickly realized my phone was gone. I ran back finding in a few feet on the shore. I would of likely jumped in the deep water to search for it. Remember to secure your phone and waterproof cases are essential. We walked in the rain viewing elk in the distance. This was followed by an uphill where the rain eventually let up. You view a notch in the rocks called the window that we hoped the trail would climb through. It did not, but the rock formations were spectacular. We had planned to camp with Chipmunk at a lake, but we realized the trail did not go down to to it. No time for side trips. We continued uphill as I was exhausted and a few minutes later we found her in a patch of trees drying out her things. We found a spot nearby where we quickly set up our dry tent and then cooked a warm meal. It got very cold quickly as the sun was setting. At least tonight our sleeping bags and tent are dry so it was time for bed. During the night there was a lightning storm, but I slept right through it.  Day 73

The morning miles were easy and luckily dry again. The San Juans are unbelievable between the wildlife, wildflowers, and the high mountains I couldn’t ask for more. The trail is slow going, snow passes still await us, and the sky always is threatening, but we continue only . There was a steep climb up to a pass then down to a tiny parking lot and road. We crossed a road hearing dirt bikes and ATVs zipping around. Paperweight shouted for me to look down the road where a huge moose was running away. All I saw was its behind and I’ll agree that it was a moose. Still hoping to see one closer up. We continued on passing a stream and then climbing upward. We passed an old building off the trail that can be used in case of a storm. One snowy traverse and we met the sign for the Colorado Trail. The next few miles sure did impress being above tree line with epic views. Many sections of the trail is a stream or muddy due to all the rain and snow melt. So your feet are always soggy and stinky. Our snack, water break, and feet drying was cut short as dark clouds came. We were able to cover another hour of great walking. It was windy, but snow covered some of the lakes and the hiking part was easy. Still walking on snow many times and I am getting more comfortable with it. The sky was threatening and hail fell as we quickly put on rain gear. Chipmunk was waiting for us as she showed us a route to bail down to tree line as small bits of thunder boomed. It looked like a small storm and I really didn’t want to bail, but they both were scared. The CDT would stay above tree line for another 8 or so miles. We began bailing on a steep downhill as the storm passed over. We were over a mile down as the sky was bright blue and sun shone. I knew this was a mistake. It was later in the day and neither of them will ever camp above tree line. We found a campsite in trees and debated what to do. If we stopped for the day then we would certainly be above tree line tomorrow afternoon. We all ate then planned to do quite a few more miles. I was annoyed! I wished we would of just waited ten minutes for the storm to pass. This is the problem that comes with hiking with people and sharing a tent. You have to compromise. I would of kept going if I was alone… I began the stupid steep climb back up to the trail swearing to myself. We joined the CDT again and the sun was shining bright. It was tough hiking with beautiful views. I was exhausted. We joined a one lane dirt road being careful not to get hit by a few trucks on it. There top speed was 5 mph since it was such a bad road. We had more climbing and I was crawling. We were close to 25 miles already on the day. I stayed behind as they busted it up the hills and onto the divide. I stopped for a water break and snack alone knowing I could tent safely in the meadow. I took my time and headed up the pass alone as the sun began to set. From 7-8:39 is the best time of the day to hike. The animals are about and the sky explodes with beautiful colors. Actually hiking the divide is stunning! I met up with the two of them waiting at a junction for me where we would drop down from the divide and trail to a campsite in the trees. Again, I would of camped in the open. We hiked for almost another hour having to put on our headlamps and find a spot in the trees. The sky was clear and the stars were shining. No time to cook again just snacking since it was so cold I quickly climbed into the tent. I wished to be sleeping on the divide under the stars, but I compromised. It was a clear night with no rain or thunderstorms. I was exhausted and slept well.

Day 74

Chipmunk was gone by the time we got out of the tent in hopes of getting over the high pass before the storm. I was still disappointed to be in the trees not on the ridge for the morning hours. The trail wandered around in the forest before crossing a stream and joining a multi use trail. Many dirt bikes have ride it lately making it slippery and annoying to hike. We then began a steep uphill climb to reconnect to the divide. I had an awful headache. We saw some elk and heard coyotes howling in the distance. Even though it wasn’t the official trail it was pretty. We reconnected to the trail and met some divide bike riders. Those guys are crazy since they ride on the edge of cliffs on loose rock. I wouldn’t do that! We connected to a road which would led to the next big pass. We hurried along as the clouds were building and it was around noon. We decided to check out an old log building near a mining site for lunch. Within ten minutes of arriving the storm came roaring in. This old building has lots of holes in the roof and a few marmots likely live here as well. We both cooked food and watched the storm move in through the old window or hole in the log walls. As it started to pour, it was tough to find a dry spot as I decided to lay down under my polycro. It was quite he storm and we spent about two hours hunkered down. I was chilly and the sky was looking better so we took our change. We later found out Chipmunk was up there during the worst part and it even hailed on her. The trail continued on the steep rocky road as I quickly warmed up. Just kept watching the dark sky! We joined a trail again switch backing up higher and higher well above 13,000 feet. We found the highest point of the Colorado Trail and continued walking the ridge line hoping for no lightning strikes. I forget to mention Happy 4th of July! Third year in a row of living in the mountains during this holiday. What more could a girl ask for? The clouds broke up and the views were stunning! I’d say it was better then any fireworks display! We cruised along walking super fast to get lower in elevation. We dipped down and headed back into the woods where we set up camp alongside Chipmunk. There is a yurt that can be rented across the meadow from us and one of their dogs ran over and got some love from us. The dog tried to get into her tent. I thought we had a new pet, but then owner called her back. Tomorrow morning we will get into town and we just survived the San Juans! This section of trail was by far the most challenging so far. From the long food carry, steep climbs, intense daily storms, but the beauty was unbelievable. I will be back to play around some more in the San Juans!

Day 75

This morning we had a quick climb up from our campsite and some easy walking before hitting a two lane dirt road. I like making phone calls home on the way into town because town life is always so busy with chores. I caught up with dad as he told me mom was having a root canal. Ew! The hiking was easy, but my shoulder hurt and I just wanted to see the paved road. I made it a few minutes behind PW and we waited for CC for ten minutes or so before attempting to hitch. We survived the San Juans and the section across the road looks beautiful as well. We got a hitch from a kind girl who had just resupplied her two friends who are hiking the Colorado Trail. She was so friendly and dropped us off at a little outfitter in the town of Lake City. We headed to Poker Alice a busy restaurant with a cool story behind Alice’s life. We ordered a pitcher of Colorado Native and a huge pizza with every meat possible on it. It was a long wait, but well worth it. There was quite a bit of excitement as a marmot had taken a ride into town in the engine of a truck. Everyone was rushing to get a photo of the scared little guy as animal control. We left before the creature was caught and headed to Raven’s Rest Hostel. It is owned by Lucky who is from Ireland and runs a clean hostel. Really cool guy! We all showered at the same time since there were three showers then grabbed the bikes and rode to the laundry mat. We also did some grocery shopping at a pricy little store. I like this town a lot. Nice people with lots of history relating to the gold rush. We relaxed in the afternoon and headed to a little restaurant down the road. A laid back day with plans to head out in the morning. We all slept in a room with four bunks meaning eight beds with drowsy hikers and a few town employees. Day 76

We went back to Poker Alice for the $6.99 all you can eat breakfast. You pick three items to start then can go back for the same three or a different three. We spent a long time hanging out here before heading back to the hostel where our bags were already packed and we could get a free ride out of town. To our surprise Nightwatch was there and we decided to zero to catch up. So we spent most of the morning and early afternoon on a couch relaxing as I blogged about New Mexico. It was an easy day and Phil and Julian showed up as well. So we knew about the large cheese pizza and pitcher of beer for $15.99 at Poker Alice’s. So the six of us went back to the restaurant and ordered three pizzas and three pitchers to start. Again, it is a long wait so we got to drinking the three pitchers before they got too warm. The pizza was delicious and we ended up buying two more pitchers as well. Phil bought a bottle of whiskey as well for us to sip on so it was a wild night. We went back to the hostel dropping off a few left over slices and walking to the nice town park. We played on the swings, slide, and the spinning thing was a little much. The boys fooled around on the slack line and I thought one of them would end their trip that way. Luckily, we all made it back to our bunks around 11:00pm as I quickly fell asleep.

Day 66Another delicious home cooked breakfast thanks to Chipmunks’s dad. We all packed up and began the drive back towards Platoro and the trailhead where we bailed. I rode in the backseat getting to cuddle with Jessie their dog on my lap. The ride was nice then we turned onto a dirt road. Her mom was anxious as a steep cliff was to our right as we hoped no cars would be coming down. We only met two others cars on this part. It was a slow going ride and took a few hours, but we made it just as the thunder clouds were rolling in. I can’t lie we were all a little scared about what the snow conditions would be like. We gave it 10 days and would soon find out. As we said farewell to her parents, her mom asked if we wanted to wait out the storm, but we declined wanting to push some miles. It sprinkled a bit and thundered then let up. All of the streams that were overflowing had improved and a lot less snow covered the mountain tops. It was easy walking as the thunder cleared out and the sun was shining again. Three times I have hiked this section. Wow! We walked through the meadow staring up at the mountain before us. It was fun finding the small ford even easier and the climb up was not over huge snow banks as the actual path was visible. We were making good time so we pushed on up to the point where I had put on my microspikes finding all the snow melted. 10 days was all it took. As we all climbed our way up this pass a second time, we kept saying how happy we were and glad of our decision making. We came to some snow passes, but they were much shorter and less terrifying. I did use my microspikes and plan to purchase some crampons this winter for upcoming adventures. I also would like to take a winter mountaineering course to feel more comfortable. We curved around the pass under blue skies loving the views and not uncontrollably shaking this time. I still avoided one of the long scary passes by going around which was slow, but the safest beat. We pushed on finding not much of a trail and lots of hard snow so we began dipping down towards the stream where we planned to camp. My toes cramped up on the downhill as I had to yank off my shoes to massage my feet. Need to stay hydrated and likely the higher elevations again had an effect. We found our way to the stream finding a campsite a little ways up. Today was one of the best days ever on trail. There were crazy moments, but nothing like before. We are content in our decision making and now just need to keep hiking strong to make it to Canada before it gets too cold. I slept very well tonight in the beautiful San Juans.

Chipmunk admiring all the snow melt

the snowy peaks 10 days earlier

This is where we bailed 10 days earlier, but Paperweight defeated it this time!
Day 67

The morning climb warmed me up quickly reminding me that we aren’t in the desert anymore. Lush green plants, flowing water, wildflowers representing each color of the rainbow, and views for miles in every direction once you climb above tree line. We met Lemonade who is from Florida and doing a section of the trail this year. We continued an uphill climb and had to do a few snowy traverses. They still really freak me out. I hate falling and in this case you’d slid down snow and into sharp rocks along the way. I took my time as usual and Paperweight made sure to make good steps for me. We came across Chipmunk looking at her map and considering how to cross the upcoming cornice. She wanted to go down then climb back up. No thanks! As I was preparing to conquer it, I hear cries to realize a large herd of elk were down below. Strange sounds! I left first from the break stop and with careful steps I maneuvered my way down the cornice. I found my way to a set of rocks cleared from snow and did a little butt sitting to get safely back to the trail. They came up behind me and asked how I got down as I pointed to my spot. It felt good to be on solid ground again as they slowly joined me. The next traverse was even more scary as Paperweight led the way for all of us. Phew! The rest of the day was less terrifying and absolutely beautiful. We cruised along flowers and bees buzzing and chatted the time away. We ended up complimenting how nice the trail was to find ourselves on a dirt road. Somehow we missed a turn and had to road walk back to where the trail crossed again. We took a nice lunch break in the shade airing out our toes as Chipmunk caught up. She also missed a turn somewhere and had to walk the road. We continued on cruising at close to 3 mph. This would not of been happening 10 days ago. The afternoon miles went quickly until we came to what looked like an animal trail nope just the CDT. Careful stepping with one foot in front of the other as rocks slid under my feet. It was stressful, but Paperweight reassured me as I wondered how this trail was even made or how it could be maintained. We made it across at a slow pace then zoomed downhill to a campsite. I could hear water to the left of the campsite so I simply headed towards it. I wandered my way to a gushing waterfall. It was tough finding a way down to it as I slowly slid to the bottom filling up bottles then climbing back out. I may be the only human this year to drink from this source. I continued back towards the campsite on various paths and heard CC chatting. She joined us as did two thru hikers we had never met, Phil and Julia! New people and instant friends. A solid and beautiful day on trail.

Day 68 

I did not sleep well last night as my body slid to the tent wall since we camped on a slope. I was exhausted and sore with about ten miles to get to the road. Paperweight felt good and he walked off ahead as I said see you at the road. I struggled along barely moving it felt like. You climb upward looking at a ski resort and busy road in the distance. I just wanted to get to the road, but the trail continued up passing ski boundary markings. I assumed we would head right up to the ski mountain, but we had to climb up a bit more of another mountain then all the way down to the road. Some of the uphill included careful stepping to avoid a rock slide down the mountain. I took careful steps also admiring all the wild flowers. I found myself nearing the road going downhill as lots of day hikers climbed up. Of course I chatted with a few and even pet a 5 month old puppy. I zipped down quickly to the road and the trail sign as people took pictures then went off into their car. I looked for chipmunk and Paperweight seeing no one. I realized they must of already go a ride. So time to solo hitch. The first group of 5 cars grove by and then another saw me, slowed down, and rescued me driving me to town. He works as a ranger and we chatted about his experiences and mine exploring various national parks by foot. It was a good hitch. I made it from Wolf Creek Pass into South Fork to find the two of them at the hotel. Wolf Creek Lodge turned out to be one of the best stays so far. Clean rooms, comfy beds, and a great deal. Most hikers choose to go into Pagosa Springs, but we had already seen it and were underwhelmed by all the people. We all showered then borrowed the bikes that the town purchased for hikers to use. We rode about a mile through the town to do laundry then back to the malt shop. We all ordered a burger and got a free ice cream on the owner. Very hiker friendly town. Then a quick stop to grocery shop and a visit to the liquor store. We relaxed for a while in the room watching dumb tv before walking down the road to the Mexican Restaurant. Lemonade joined us as well. Delicious meal with great company. The business also gives free desert to thru hikers as well. Highly recommend the small town of South Fork. Everyone had a nice buzz! Those two margaritas were amazing! We all cruised back to the hotel to lounge in the soft bed and drifted to sleep full, clean, and happy!

Day 58Drove into Wyoming early this morning after a few hours of sleep in the back of the rental car with Paperweight. Chipmunk cowboy camped on the top of the metal picnic table. The view of Irish Canyon on road 10N was beautiful and a delight to see in the morning hours. We cruised along seeing a badger, suicidal prairie dogs, and lots of pronghorn! The gravel road led us into Wyoming with no welcome sign to be seen. We stopped in Rock Springs for breakfast at Denny’s since we still had some time before turning in the car. At the airport, we learned only one flight comes in today and it would be tough to hitch out. So the Avis employee drove us back into town near the on ramp where we stuck out our thumbs. It’s over a 90 mile hitch to Rawlins. Never hitched this far before. Within an hour we were riding in a pick up truck towards the town we needed to get to. When suddenly, his car began making noise and he needed to get off the highway. We ended up stuck in Wamsutter, WY which is a gas station right off the highway. We spent over three hours attempting to get an over 30 mile ride to Rawlins which is the next town. We failed going inside the gas station and ordering food. We looked into taxis costing over $100 and no public transit so back to hitching. It took a little less than an hour for a kind man to rescue us. Cool guy that was transporting a fully functionally printed 3D where we got to peek at in the trailer. We began the road walk out of Rawlins excited to be on the CDT again as we turned off the highway and onto a dirt road. So began the herds of pronghorns running away from us. They are beautiful creatures and I never got close enjoy to get a good picture. We hiked on as the wind blew and the evening cooled off. Parts of the trail was cross country then reconnected to a road. It’s nice to be on the trail again, but I didn’t expect it to be Wyoming. We hiked late until it began getting dark and actually set up on the trail which is a two lane road. No rain fly on the tent today.

Day 59-62

The Great Divide Basin is known for being a dry desert. The flowers were blooming and all the water sources were reliable for us during the last week of June. There were baby pronghorn, wild horses, and calves. We came across one group of over 100 wild horses and others spread about. One let us pet him as I wished I could ride home. It was a magical place of an endless trail heading towards the horizon. You would climb up to see the trail ahead for miles. The animals and flowers made the hike enjoyable. I really don’t mind desert hiking. The last two days were horrible with mosquitoes that it was unreal. Every night we camped on the trail without a rain fly sleeping wonderfully. We walked in the low 20s for miles each day enjoying desert sunsets and a nice moon rise from inside the tent. I enjoyed this section, but doubt I would hike it again. My feet ached each day and when the wind want blowing it was almost unbearable. We hiked 120 miles quickly and will be able to jump ahead when we return in hot August. This plan may work out great and it’s nice to have no long desert sections left. We walked closer and closer to the Winds where we will be in a few weeks admiring their beauty, but snowy Colorado will come first.

Day 63

We walked into my favorite town so far Atlantic City, WY along a road. The town was at the bottom of the hill and full of cute homes. The Miners Grubstake was the place to be with fun owners and a cool vibe. I had a delicious breakfast then a stuffed burger that blew my mind for lunch. Chocolate Chipmunks parents had planned to visit her in Coloroado having booked a cabin in Creede, Co. Her dad offered to pick us up there making an additional 9 hour drive two ways for us. He showed up and we bought him a burger before we began a 140ish mile ride back to Rawlins to spend a night at the hotel. I hate all the car riding but I’m seeing even more of the country this way. We booked rooms, showered and ate at a Thai restaurant. Her father’s treat and it was delicious before retiring to our hotel rooms.

Day 64

Drove back to Colorado today leaving a bit after 6 and have a McDs breakfast as well. He drove the main roads so it was a completely different view and beautiful as we passed through a few trail towns I will see later. It was a nice day of riding and rest. We did the Basin quick and my body felt it. We got to Creede before 4 doing a few chores then heading to the cabin. She has wonderful parents and a cute little dog. So began the spoiling session. We had homemade meats balls and pasta for dinner with bread and garlic butter. Along with beers and great conversation. Sitting in the cabin watching the snow melt on the mountains with wonderful company. It feels good to be back in Colorado.

Day 65

Zero day in Creede with Chocolate Chipmunk’s parents. We walked around downtown Creede enjoying a day off and did our grocery shopping. Relaxing day with three homemade meals and even a nap. This is the life of a thru hiker. Tomorrow we retry the spot where we bailed, but today we rest. 

Day 50Leaving Chama late in the afternoon was a start of the nero out of town. The morning was full of eating and wandering up town to the post office. 4 people rarely get a hitch so we walked to the outskirts of town. Stopping at the post office then moving slowly to the bar as the sky looked a bit threatening. We got drinks, apps, played two rounds of dart, I played and won a round of pull versus a worker at the bar, and as we were about to leave an older rancher stole me to slow dance with him. The only two people dancing in the room full of men and a few hikers. I was yelled at a few times by him for my dance moves. Please I’m a hiker never been a dancer. We wandered out of the bar and began hitching. A woman offered to clean out her car then bring us as an older man not drinking at the bar scooped us up in his pick up truck. Nightwatch rode in the cab as us three rode out of town in the back of a pick up winding up to the pass. As he dropped us off, we walked over the railroad tracks and began the typical uphill climb out of town. Pack is extra heavy with snowshoes, ice axe, gaiters, rain pants, and 6 days of food. We wandered a few miles out of town encountering no snow and we set up near a stream crossing. First night with a two person tent… It’s a big step and quite the change for me. It was a warm evening as we drifted to bed with the sound of gunshots from the campground below. Second night camping in Colorado. 

Day 51

Started an uphill climb as I moaned about the lack of snow and having to carry snowshoes. If I only knew… We wandered up and up through various terrain. Small snowy parts we were able to go quickly climb over as other spots were slow going and a bit terrifying. I said the words “I don’t like this” too many times. As we climbed above tree line, the views became epic. I saw waterfalls all around me, bright green grass and trees, and lots of snowy peaks. It was a tough and beautiful day. I snowshoed for the first time as well today. Feels very strange and find it ironic that I’ve wanted to go snowshoeing for years yet the first time is with a huge pack. We got off trail again as usual having to do a big steep climb out. We got hailed on then it began to rain. Paperweight and I hid under a few trees as I got too chilly. I struggled today, but pushed on. Parts of the trail was a river as well so soaked feet all day long. We made it to the campsite finding Nightwatch had been there waiting for hours. We cooked a double dinner and finished just in time before it started to sprinkle. Masshole and Stumy came back south on the trail telling us they bailed on the high route because it was to sketchy. This made me freaked out and worried since they are strong hikers. They exclaimed they are hikers not mountaineers. With that information I went to bed worried about what awaited us.

Day 52

The morning started with an uphill climb from the lake that we camped at. It was stunning climb with running water along the way. It was a challenge walking on the snow with only a little bit of postholing since the snow was still frozen. Today was a much better day with lots of hiking and brakes. We came across a huge marmot with a face stuffed with grass. It did not storm at all today. We were able to just hike along. A few spots in the trees were sketchy for me as I looked down at a valley way down below. I’m getting a bit more comfortable in the snow. Epic views along the way. I enjoyed snowshoeing a bit more rather than postholing in the afternoon. We moved down from the higher elevation and onto the low route. We found a nice spot to camp then set up and cooked right before dinner. I got yelled at for getting rice juice in the tent and so began the rules for the tent. 

Day 53

We packed up right before it started to sleet then turned into rain. We ran into Bambi who started the same day as us and took off two weeks to let the snow melt. We cruised downhill on the snow towards a river crossing. We searched a bit as Bambi climbed down from the trail on the other side to tell us to go up stream. The crossing was so chilly that my feet were numb for half a mile. We walked along the side of the river for miles sometimes on solid ground and then on snow at times. He even cut me a steep in the snow at one time that I appreciated. We came to the Middle Fork River crossing finding no safe way to cross so four of us continued walking on together bushwhacking up and down slopes and over dead trees. It wasn’t much fun and tricky maneuvering. We finally dipped down into a meadow where we came to the Middle Fork River looking for a safe place to cross. The cold snow melt water came almost all the way to my ass as I struggled across the rushing water. One of the strongest if not strongest crossing ever for me. The four of us took a nice break in the sun snacking and happy to have made it across. We began a walk along the river and upward out of the valley. I struggled again heading uphill with the gaining elevation. We came out of the trees to an opening looking up at the mountain we would be climbing. It looked a bit terrifying as we made our way in a clearing closer and closer to our climb. A few stream crossings then a lunch break as Paperweight and I began the climb. We climbed over large snow piles and into an opening where an avalanche had occurred recently. We were able to cross the river and begin climbing up through the trees. As we came to an opening, we could see for miles. As the snow got slick, I put on my microspikes to make myself feel more comfortable. Again, I did not feel very safe. We came to a bunch of rocks melted from the sun and found Bambi sitting there. He had tried it and found it to be too sketchy ahead so he turned back. This freaked me out as we attempted the pass ourselves. You are looking down knowing a slide without a self arrest would end in death. I followed behind Paperweight as he kept me calm as I moved slowly. We made it past where he bailed to see more snow ahead. We moved along as storm clouds were threatening and the wind became fierce. My hat almost blew off my head at multiple times. We did a few more sketchy passes then would did in and out of small trees. As the sky grew darker, I got more afraid. We came to a long snow field with a steep drop when Paperweight finally said he did not want to go on. Way past his comfort level so I slowly turned around and we discussed our options in the trees. We could try to dip down into the valley glissading and hugging the view trees or go back where we came from. The weather gave us little time to decide so we turned around quickly having to go back over all the sketchy spots again. I felt so unsure of what would happen. We passed the avalanche area as thunder and lightning rumbled we hid in the trees. We saw lightning strike a tree on the other ridge debating the future of our thru hike. This would begin days of worry and confusion for me. A thru hike is so continuous and simple logistically. Expect the unexpected. When you do not feel safe, hiking is not fun. I do not like shaking during every snowy step and feeling so anxious. You can not enjoy the view either. We continued downhill in the rain as my feet and hands were both numb. He pulled out his sleep socks which I slipped onto my hands during the downhill. We hurried to the river ducking into the trees to camp. What a challenging day having to turn around for the first time ever during a thru hike. What will be?

Day 54

Woke up to frozen shoes along with everything else. We were hidden in the trees so we moved everything into the sun. It has been a confusing few hours not knowing where our adventure will take us now. We began the walk along the Middle Fork River towards the trailhead. It was nice as the sun came out. So many thoughts rushed through my head wondering if we should of kept pushing on even though I was terrified for my life. We made it to the trailhead to find only one set of tire tracks in and out for the season. But the privy was really nice. We began the gravel walk down the mountain towards the small town of Platoro. A truck came our way with Nightwatch inside. Tony recused us! He drove us down into town as I chatted with him and the guys rode on the tailgate. Nightwatch made it down to another trailhead during the storm and his adventure sounded terrifying. Tony is an awesome guy who said something I liked…Only three times I kill something 1 I’m going to eat it 2 it’s going to eat me 3 it’s going to kill something I want to eat. Thank you so much for the ride into the small town of Platoro. The three of us are a home cooked meal at the restaurant before talking to people who lived there about leaving town. Suddenly, Tony showed up with Chocolate Chipmunk who also bailed, but a different way having to bushwhack down then back up the mountain alongside a cliff. The four of us began trying to hitch the 22 miles on the gravel road to a main highway. It took almost two hours for two vehicles who were camping together stopped. I rode wth the woman and dog and the other three road with the man. They were heading towards Pagosa Springs so we got dropped back in Chama, NM. It took about an hour and a half to get back into town. We booked a room again at the Y, showered and began drinking before heading to the Saloon to think about our plans. The owner bought us all a beer again as we ate another delicious meal. Options? I don’t want to think. 

 
Day 55

We ate breakfast at Fina’s for the fourth time. I just want to get out of New Mexico. Our plan was to get to Durango airport to rent a car. So we did laundry then began hitching. Jeanie rescued us and was in her 70s with lots of stories. She was only going to drive us part way but if the boys would unload some fencing at her home in Dulce she would take us all the way. It ended up being quite an adventuring as she drove us on a dirt road for 3 miles to her property. She lives in the canyon in a neat home that she showed of. I hope to visit her again. We made it to Pagosa Springs which was full of tourists everywhere and overwhelming. We tried to rent a car there, but none were available. As we began the walk to the outskirts of town, the woman who gave me the ride out of Platoro showed up and drove us even farther out of town. We tried to hitch to Durnago having no luck and quitting after an hour. We ate at McDonalds and made a cardboard sign saying “hikers to Durango.” As we stood on the side of the road it took ten minutes this time for a guy to give us a ride all the way to the airport. It was an over an hour drive as we suddenly found out no cars available for two days due to a festival. So we ended up paying $60 for a taxi into downtown to spend two nights with Smiles who hiked the CDT a few years back and met Nightwatch on the PCT. it was after 9:00 pm by the time we got there and she took us to the grocery store. It was a long day of hitching, but ended up at a beautiful home in Durango sharing a pull out couch.
Day 56

Today was a zero day in Durango and I also turned 30 years old. Nightwatch and Chocolate Chipmunk cooked up bacon and eggs as I toasted bagels so we could all eat breakfast sandwiches. A delicious meal then Smiles dropped us off in downtown for a day of exploring. It was a nice relaxing day still not knowing what we were doing. Included gear shops, a brewery, little shops, music in the park, and dinner. I got a desert at dinner and they sang to me. I also bought myself carrot cake at the grocery for the evenings. We all played cards together drinking beers late into the evening. Not a bad start to my 30s but I would of liked to be on trail. Maybe next year. Day 57

The morning game plan came quickly as Chocolate Chipmunk decided to head up to Wyoming to do the Basin. Paperweight and I agreed to join her. We ended up at the airport and in a car after our first Uber ride. We pilled in and headed back to Pagosa Springs. Grabbed our mail drops, went shopping, and mailed all the snow gear to Creede. We dropped Nightwatch off at Wold Creek Pass and began the drive North to Wyoming to hike non snow covered mountains. I rode in the backseat the entire time enjoying the roads we took avoiding the main highways and even doing side roads then through small mountain towns. We drove close to the border and onto a gravel road. We arrived at a free campsite around 10 pm in Irish Canyon. Quickly fell asleep getting ready for hiking the basin in the morning.

Day 42

Around 6, I was awake packing up my things at the campground. I took a morning shower and put on my already stinky hiking shirt. We made our way with our packs to the cafeteria for one last breakfast. We of course took a lot longer than we planned as we ended up eating our own lunch at the picnic table near the cafeteria. A huge branch fell off a tree almost onto Chocolate Chipmunks pack. Luckily, she wasn’t sitting there anymore. It could of been a trip ender. Paperweight and I ordered snowshoes after hearing how hard the first section of Colorado would include lots of post holing. Another big expense I didn’t plan on, but a lifetime purchase. The four of began the hike out a bit after 2. Whoops. We walked past a few neat building then began crossing the river over and over. We found blue markers on the trees that we followed up and out of the canyon. The climb was tough especially since it was the warmest part of the day. I struggled feeling like I was crawling. My shoulder hurts already! I took my time admiring the beautiful mesas all around. I’m going to miss New Mexico. We all took a snack break at the top of the climb where the trail joins a dirt road. Lots of noisy cows! We came to a huge group going crazy! It was unreal the sounds they made as I admired a white with black spots quite the unique cow! We crossed a cattle guard and dipped back onto a trail for a bit before hitting a forest road again. We had a nice view of the Colorado’s snowy peaks as we found a campsite back on a trail overlooking an epic view. As we ate dinner, the town lights began to turn on surprising me at how close we were to civilization even though it was miles away. A nice short day, but we finally made it out!

Day 43

We lost Nightwatch this morning since he was out of water last night he got an early start. Paperweight and I cruised along towards the water source taking our time. We took a long break there watching chipmunks munch on dandelions and basking in the warm sun. The water was straight from a pipe so I didn’t even filter. Favorite type of water source! The day was mostly hiking along former and not often used two lane roads. We managed to get off trail twice since things aren’t marked. A few extra steps, but the hiking was easy and beautiful. We had a long lunch break as usual and my partner who is a physical therapist did some manual therapy on my shoulder. He’s working on diagnosing me and fixing my issues. It felt great! We continued to move along passing more gravel then a trail followed by a sketchy water crossing too. We passed a strange section of lots of cut aspen trees and a deserted campground. We threw away trash and even used a privy! A few more miles to a nice campsite where the three of us set up and drifted to sleep. 

Day 44

The three of us woke up around 7 happy to have the sun shinning down on us. We all did the usual morning chores of packing up the inside of your tent, eating breakfast, drying out the condensation on our tents, filtering water, and finding a place to dig a hole! Within an hour we were all packed up and walking north along the gravel muddy road. Chocolate chipmunk got a head start and we didn’t catch up to her until lunch. The two of us cruised along the road jumping puddles and stepping carefully around the rocks. We can still see the high mountains of Colorado covered in snow calling our names. We walked a bit over 4 miles to a stream flowing across the trail where we took a close to an hour long break. Surrounded by large aspens and pines and the sound of flowing water has me so happy! We are officially done with the desert of New Mexico I believe! The trail continued on the road as a truck bounced down the trail towards us we jumped to the side of the road avoiding the mud. We said hello and as we looked back they had got themselves stuck. We laughed as a little ways up the road it warned people that the road was no maintained! We continued on mostly uphill sweating and admiring the lush green forest surrounding us. Took a water break then was happy to find a CDT marker leading us onto a trail. We cruised even faster being on a real trail again busting the miles towards our lunch break spot. We were talking loudly when we saw a man and a few other people coming towards us. He informed us there was a large group and they were walking in silence so don’t be offended if they did not say hello. A few said hello as we waited a few minutes as they climbed uphill passing us. The last five took a break letting us cruise downhill towards a river crossing. Rio Vallecitos had a nice log across the river that we easily walked. We joined Chocolate Chipmunk for a break with lots of flies harassing us all. They prefer our feet mostly! Yuck! I cooked using Paperweight’s stove for lunch. I had two tortillas with rice and black beans, cheese, and hot sauce. I may of burnt my fingers a bit ouch! Not used to an alcohol stove. I need to do this more often as I felt so great busting out the next three miles uphill listening to music in under an hour. A water fill up and moving along. The sky turned dark and thunder roared. I waited for him to catch up as we debated our plan. We choose to duck under the nearest and only tree nearby as the rain began to fall. Then came the hail and more roaring lightning and thunder. We made the right choice instead of climbing uphill where there were few trees we found shelter. We basically huddled okay we cuddled under a tree keeping each other warm as the rain and hail pounded down. We waited 45 minutes as it passed over and the blue skies returned as we climbed upward. It’s all about timing as it would of been almost a mile without a good tree to seek shelter under. After the rain, the smell of the forest is unbelievable. I was also pleased to see two deer. One ran along side me for a bit stopping allowing me to take a photo. I cruised along in the lush meadows slipping around in the mud. I had a moment! So fortunate to be out here and so in love with the scenery. We cruised together the last 4ish miles towards a campground. The trail was soaked from the snow melt off so in the last two minutes of hiking our dry shoes became soaked again. We picked out a campsite number 20 to be exact throwing our stuff onto a picnic table. Trash can, a privy, and water made this a perfect site. Being a Saturday night there were kids screaming, fires burning, a few gunshots in the distance, and other unfamiliar trail sounds. We relaxed at the table as a bigger group arrived at the site next to us playing loud music and such. Maybe this wasn’t the best place to camp, but too late now. Lying in my tent listening to random tunes late into the evening as it drizzles and lightning flash in the sky. 

Day 45

I was pleased to use a privy in the morning. We followed Guthook’s app to get out of the campground. We ended up taking a road to be surprised to see a trail marker at the exit of the lake. So again we did extra miles for no real reason. Just continuous footsteps! We crossed the road and passed a bin of trail magic full of empty soda cans and trash. Along the trail we went to a small field will silly switchbacks up an already easy to walk hill. Maybe it was for the snow melt? Pretty random I thought. We ran into Dragon and Deco along the way as well. A nice road walk led to a great water source for a quick break. More moving along towards the snowy Colorado mountains. I saw a prairie dog hanging out by his hole. He even posed for us. What cute little creatures! We had a long break at the end stream where we caught up to Chipmunk. After she left, a large aspen tree crashed down bringing a few others with it right off the trail. It’s all about timing! It sprinkled as we rushed the last few miles towards the planned campground. Lots of herds of elk roaming the land. We can across a fawn as the mother ran away. It stood up slowly and wobbly being just a few days old possibly. It started to walk towards Paperweight as we hurried by! We almost camped at the lower Lagunitas campground since it was sprinkling, but we did the extra bit uphill where Chipmunk was set up. We quickly set up and the rain stopped. We enjoyed dinner at a picnic table looking down on the elk drinking from the pond. The sky turned dark again and we quickly ran back to our tents just as we had finished dinner. Lightning struck nearby and as usual I slept like a baby. Not even hearing the mouse that would chew two holes in my tent attempting to get my food.

Day 46

Stupid mouse! Good think tonight will be my last night with this tent. Paperweight and I are moving into a 2 person tent saving us both almost a pound and keeping each other warm in Colorado. I’ll have to sew it back up when the trail is done. We climbed up to a ridge walk that blew my mind! We walked for miles staring out at vacation homes in the distance. What a view! I love northern New Mexico. We took a break at a scenic outlook staring at Colorado. Looks terrifying! The views today were epic and a fell of what is to come. We had lunch at a stream staring at the clouds growing darker. We hurried along towards the uphill climb of the day. We hit snow and lost the trail completely. Footprints led in every direction and there were few markers. We climbed upward postholing and covering a mile in an hour. Soaked feet as many times my foot would sink through the snow into a cold river. I was miserable. Luckily I have a cheerful hiking partner. We were almost to the top when thunder and lightning pounded. To be safe we did not climb up any farther, but used our gps to find a connecting dirt road. We hurried down sinking to thigh deep at times. We hit the road as it was pouring so we jumped down farther hiding in the trees. I got cold quickly as we saw lightning strike near the top of the peak we were supposed to be on. This ain’t a walk in the woods! The rain let up and back on the road we went going as quickly as possibly over two miles to the point we dropped back into the trees. The hiker only got harder here as I post holed once into a down log slamming my shin hard. I even slid a bit catching myself and bending back my pinky! So many injuries and obstacles. Climbing over so many down trees, stepping in snow melt rivers, and avoiding getting hit in the face by branches. I felt like we were making no progress at all. We found a stream where we filled up and started to look for a campsite. I was exhausted as we found no good spots we just continued onward nearing our second state. I shook off all the stress of today and reflected on New Mexico. I saw more wildlife in this state than all 17 other states I’ve thru hiked in. I’ve seen more weather and lots less thru hikers. I have embraced the unexpected challenges. I am fully enchanted by New Mexico and hope to return someday. We turned a corner and found a fence separating the two states. Someone made a NM and CO marker with sticks that we walked right over. I had to repair CO for our photo. We made it!! We connected every footstep. We took 6 zero days and too many neros in and out of town to keep track of. It was an exhausting day, but rewarding. The first view from Colorado blew my mind as I stared at lush green trees, lakes, and snowy peaks! We walked along looking for a site and ended up getting off trail again! We found our way back to the trail climbing through more snow piles to a nice site to enjoy the sunset. We both set up our matching one person Six Moon Design tents for the first and last time in Colorado. The sky exploded in beautiful colors as I spent my first night ever in the new state of Colorado.

Day 47 

1.1 miles to Cumbress Pass, CO where we hitch into Chama, NM! So we make it to Colorado, but get to go back to New Mexico. That’s alright with me that means more green chili! We were pretty slow packing up today. I went through my pack finding lots of things to just send home since heavier snow gear awaits me in town. We got moving and spent most of the time taking pictures and admiring the elk. We had to cross a few snowy patches, but nothing like yesterday. We quickly crossed the road and put out our thumbs. The first vehicle to drive by was a huge mountain tour bus. It took 10 minutes for the next vehicle to come and it was Ricky from Texas who stopped and drove us into town. He has been staying in his RV in Chama for a while and seen lots of hikers. We were the first two he picked up this season. He dropped us off by the post office as we decided to get breakfast first where we ran into Deco and Dragon. They got in yesterday afternoon right before the storm came. We ate then went to the PO. I got my two boxes from mom, but our orders from Amazon were missing. Paperweight would spend a few hours this afternoon and evening on the phone with UPS. It was ridiculous! We walked over a mile toward the cheapest motel at the end of the town. The owner of the Trading Post ran outside and offered us both a NM bandana. We saw him again at the High Country Saloon which he also owns. He bought us each a round of beer too! We got a room at the Y motel for $48. Nothing nice, but it would do! Did the typical town chores followed by beers, dinner, and sleeping with a pillow!700 plus miles vs new shoes

Day 48

We took a zero day in Chama, NM spending most of our time lounging in our hotel room at the Y. I loved Fina’s Diner and specifically the green chili breakfast burrito with a little American flag sticking out of it. We got all of our chores done so we could drink a few beers and relax. The mystery of the snowshoes were solved early as we learned they were at the Post Office all along with a different name on the label. Nice job UPS! Note: when ordering from Amazon write General Delivery and the address to the post office next to it. We headed up the road and got a hitch with the owner of one of the nicer hotels in town. He had loaned his other car to another hiker named Boat who we met at the post office and brought us back to our hotel. A new pair of snowshoes for $190 ek! I hope to get a lot of use out of them. Another great meal at the Saloon this evening as we packed up planning to leave tomorrow afternoon. 

Day 49

Chocolate Chipmunk had the same problem with Amazon/ UPS, but her gear for mailed to a girl in Santa Fe with the same name! What? So Paperweight, Nightwatch, and I didn’t want to leave her behind so we debated what to do. We went into the office and talked to the owner Anne where she offered us a free room number 11. It had four beds and a kitchen. She doesn’t want anyone to hike alone. So with a free stay we all bought a six pack, snacked, lounged, and then went to the Saloon for another delicious meal. The owner bought us each another beer maybe we will stay here forever! Bringing the total to 8 zeros in New Mexico.

Meal 3 at Fina’s Diner

Day 37

Leaving Cuba took a little longer than expected. We checked out at the required time of 11 then went to McDonalds where we all bought a few burgers to pack out. I ate one and packed one out. The boys bought more. We walked out of town stopping to grab an ice cream and a little whiskey too. We wandered off the main road onto a side road walking past lots of homes and farms. Some beautiful large homes and others tiny ones. We got off of the paved road and as we passed a stream the boys yelled bear. It wasn’t a very big one, but it was terrified of us so off it ran. We took a break a few minutes later munching on our burgers before were the starting an uphill climb on the road towards the trailhead. Continuous footsteps! We got to the trailhead running into other hikers and getting a little magic. A fresh apple yum! We are now climbing into higher elevations and water is much more plentiful. As I climbed up, water was rushing down the trail and I loved all of the aspen, pine, and evergreen trees! Mountains again! We saw a few elk along the way and found a nice campsite in a meadow where the three of us set up. I didn’t like their spot so I moved a little ways away having a private spot! We all feasted and had a little whiskey. A beautiful day I’ll never forgot and I feel at home again.

Day 38

I did not make it 2 minutes before my shoes were soaked. All of the snow melt led to wet meadows as I sloshed through the water. Chilly water. A huge heard of elk were roaming across the meadow as well. The boys got ahead of me as I filtered. I realized I was off trail so I cross another stream to soon see the boys coming across as well. Someone had left two branches blocking the trail which usually means don’t go this way. Using a gps is essential out here or a map. We all wandered along the wet trail admiring the lush green forest getting more excited for what was to come. We headed back down the mountain to run into other hikers at a water source. A mountain bike rider zoomed by us twice mentioning there are lots of CDT thru hikers out here. We crossed a main road finding trail magic of cold soda. A cold coke made my day and gave me the energy to complete the climb. I had a moment on this section surrounded by large rock in varying colors falling more in love with New Mexico! We did our miles and decided to camp off trail at a nice spring. A meadow campsite and an early evening was perfect. This is the life!

Day 39

We had a few morning miles in the woods heading towards the Chama River. Climbed up a Mesa, walked along a stream up and down little dips, then crossed a bridge over the Chama River. Largest river so far on the hike and the sound of rushing water has up excited to not need to worry about a water report. We had a long road walk as it was a holiday weekend cars zipped by on a one lane gravel road. We had a goal to swim in the river. Rafters waved at us as they zipped down rapids. It was a warm day. We found a side road to an outhouse then headed down to the river where we met the Deming five. They had been out camping for a few days and asked what we were up to. We ended up having wonderful conversation, a few beers each including a new favorite Monk Beer, lots of fresh watermelon, and a few other snacks. I love moments like these! Two of them were from Massachusetts as well and have fallen in love with New Mexico living here for many years. As they said sometimes the desert calls to you. It’s calling to me! They even filled up our water. We wandered back to the road with a nice buzz as more cars passed down. We found the boat access spot with trash cans as we soaked our feet in the river. We were told of a great campsite half a mile off trail so that was our goal. We maybe hiked 15 miles total today, but I could care less. We took the side trail to a stunning spot looking back on winding Chama River! My favorite campsite so far and it isn’t even on the trail. A huge four foot long bull snake hung out with us a bit. We watched the sun set content with our lives! I look forward to coming back here someday and maybe even doing a little rafting. For now, I’ll keep my pack on my back and walk along. A day of magic, beauty, rushing water, and smiles!

Day 40

The boys woke up before me, but I still caught a nice glimpse of the sunrise over the Chama River. I’ll never forget this campsite and hope to visit again someday. We were walking well before 7 on the gravel road towards Ghost Ranch. We managed to walk past the turnoff to a trail that cut some road walking. Things aren’t marked well out here and if you aren’t paying attention you can miss a turn easily. We joined the paved highway where I had cell service and checked in with mom. We walked against traffic as cars zipped by. The smell of exhaust! Eh! We jumped the fence that was labeled No Trespassing into an abandoned museum to go cross country towards the ranch. Bark Eater and Ilene joined us as well as we climbed two barbed wire fences then found ourselves going down a rocky descent. We connected to an old nature trail that led over an old suspension bridge. Pretty neat! We walked quickly eager to get our resupply and feast! Getting into Ghost Ranch was the goal of the day and before 10 we had succeeded. We walked the gravel road past a few employee buildings, then a museum, and up towards the Visitor Center. Hikers were hanging around the stone porch sorting mail drops and simply relaxing. Ran into Masshole, Stumi, Tick Tock, The Beast, Chocolate Chipmunk, Turbo, and my favorite Hob. He gave me the run down as to how the ranch was run as we shared stories. 22,000 acres of land had been donated to the Prespeterian Church and they turned it into a retreat area. Hob is taking time off to see him wife then flipping up to avoid the snow. I’ll miss running into him in each trail town, but I look forward to visit him in the future. He refused to tell us his birthday, but he had let it slip that he turned 64 already on trail. So I bought him a ginger ale and put a candle in one of the hostess cupcakes my mom had sent in my mail drop. It was a great surprise for him and made me happy that I’m carrying candles this year. Hob you are an extraordinary man and I can only hope to see as much of the world as you have. He hiked off as I held back tears. Everyone lounged on the porch until lunch time. No need to shower or set up. We were starving! Ham and cheese or grilled cheeses with French fries! Delicious! Along with a salad bar, fruit, and even some ice cream! We were all in heaven feasting for the hour that the cafeteria was open. I have never been so full as we slowly made our way to the campground where we showered, started laundry, and the three of us set up our tents in a shared spot with Chocolate Chipmunk. The girl behind the desk said four at the site was fine making it about $6 a piece. Not too bad! I came out of the bathroom and the boys were talking to two ladies who offered us a ride to a gas station to pick up some things. The ride was beautiful admiring the mesas and the area Georgia O’Keefe called home. We each bought a 6 pack of beer each and a few bags of chips. What else would a hiker need? It was a fun evening on drinks then a dinner buffet! I ran into Thunder Bunny again! Haven’t seen her since outside of Tahoe on the PCT! Love seeing hikers again! Spent some time in the library using the wifi before sleeping well in my tent. Nice “town” day!

Day 41

A zero day at Ghost Ranch was the perfect place. Buffet breakfast and dinner. Good company! We toured the two museums, walked a labyrinth, lounged in the library and lounge, found a piano for Paperweight to play, and simply enjoyed the beauty surrounding us! Lovely people in a lovely place!

Day 30

I drank three small plastic cups of OJ, one bagel with cream cheese, and 3 mini muffins from the free continental breakfast before the three of us went across the parking lot to Denny’s. I then devoured two French toast, hash browns, bacon, and two eggs. Hiker hunger! Hob sat across from us eating breakfast then getting back to the trail quicker than us like usual. We checked out and attempted to hitch the three miles of paved road to the post office. No luck so a long walk into town with full packs of food. I had to pee so bad, but there was no place to go for almost the entire 3 miles. We came to a city park with porta potties! Yes! I then went for a quick swing and maybe even slid down the slide once! Soon to be 30 years old and I still love a good park. We finished our walk to the post office as they mailed boxes ahead to Ghost Ranch. Then we had to walk back to the road where the trail heads out of town. Deja Vu! Luckily, we passed another park with a water fountain where we each drank a liter and filled up. We had planned on buying a liter each at the grocery store on the way out, but free water is even better. We met the high school woodworking teacher who asked for our picture for the newspaper. Nice guy! We then began another road walk past little shops and such leading out of town. 3 young girls in a car from New York stopped asking what we were up to. I think we blew their minds! They were driving up to Mt Taylor today on a road trip it appeared. We then stopped for a quick ice cream sandwich break at a gas station then moved along. The last store on our map was the grocery store where someone wanted to buy some whiskey. They told us to go down the road 100 yards, which turned out to be much longer. Success! Plenty of food, water, and a little whiskey! Back to the trail, which was along a paved road for miles. We passed two signs saying not to pick up hitch hikers. Then came the state prison where one guy asked Nightwatch if we had any drugs from behind the barbed wire fence. Never walked past a prison before on trail or actually ever. Cars zipped by as Mt Taylor stared at us in the distance. Lots of trash, bullet shells, and glass to avoid. We made it to the trailhead parking lot around 2 with 8 ish miles of road complete! We hid under a tree to find a dead coyote behind it when we went to pee. Reminds me that you never know what is lurking nearby. I threw away my trash in the cans at the trailhead then began hiking a trail for the first time today around 3pm. The trail winded up a mesa for a few miles before flattening out and giving stunning views looking down at Grants. My pack is heavy and I was moving slowly. I hate getting a late start, but that’s typical on a day out of town. I walked alone the first few miles before joining the boys for a bit. They flew along with their lighter packs. As the day drew on, we got to the point where we began the uphill climb off of the CDT towards Mt. Taylor which is the tallest peak we pass in New Mexico. Yes! Paperweight and I hiked together getting confused at a few points with so many different trails in various directions. Exhausted we continued uphill until we found the spring past 8:15 as it was getting dark. We camped above 9,000 feet and I felt the elevation as I was slow doing everything and not feeling hungry. Similar to how I felt in the High Sierra of California last year. I knew better so I forced down a meal before sleeping soundly in my tent. 

Day 31

The three of us were all in our tents as Hob arrived this morning at the spring. He may of even sang me a little wake up song. We slowly got going since it was chilly. We began an uphill climb slow and steady! It was steep for a while as we looked up toward Mt. Taylor at 11,301 feet. We could see small patches of snow as we curved around the mountain to see nice long switchbacks up towards the peak. Hob and Chocolate Chipmunk were ahead of us at least one switchback. It got chilly and windy so I added my rain jacket. Feels good to be hiking to the peak of a mountain again. Mt. Whitney was my last peak and wasn’t on trail just like Mt Taylor isn’t on trail. I struggled a bit, but going slow and steady (how I was named SAS) I made it. Mt Taylor is a volcano and behind the sign is a 6 foot whole where it had erupted so yes it used to be even taller. First volcano climb ever! The views were clear and I could see for miles. Hob pointed out the El Malpais in the distance as we could recognize the trail we had just walked even saw Pie Town in the distance. The five of us walked down a little bit to an open warmer spot where Hob shared his thin mint cookies. Me and the boys also had a quick whiskey swig on top of the mountain. We all snacked and chatted for a bit before heading down on the first patches of snow. I slid a few times using my poles to keep myself upright. It was fun and a bit nerve wracking as expected. We then came to an open area where we joined a dirt road that switch backed up to a lookout. Slow and steady we made it. Paperweight and I dropped out packs and climbed towards the lookout which also isn’t on trail. La Mosca is at 11,036 feet meaning two 11,000 feet mountains conquered today. We talked to the man at the lookout who told us there was a fire way out in the distance. He was chilly wishing they would open up the lookout soon, but it takes four strong men to open it up. He patrols three lookouts and I thanked him for his service. We took some quick picks then headed down to a lower elevation quickly warming up. The next section followed a road over some snow patches as we cruised along. No more big climbs ahead! Took a few breaks with the crew of five before getting back on a really muddy road. I was listening to a podcast when I suddenly looked back and saw something strange. A woman was driving a blue Pontiac Grand Prix with the trunk open with a lawn chair sticking out. It seemed so strange to me since the road had two deep tire marks in the mud. The bottom of the car was scrapping the ground and the seat was bouncing around. I got off the trail and was still moving faster then her car. She said hello out her window as I noticed a cane and a dog resting in the back seat. A few yards down the trail I heard what I expected to hear. The sound of her tires stuck in the mud as she continued to gun it getting more stuck. I let the boys catch up to me as we all evaluated her situation! I knew we wouldn’t be able to get her out, but we spent almost an hour attempting to help. Paperweight tried to rock the car as Nightwatch and I tried digging and wedging rocks and sticks behind the tire. She really didn’t seem to worried as she said AAA would get her out if we could just call for her when we got to or car. She did not understand thru hiking. She offered us money for our time as we said not to worry. We continued on the road for 15 minutes worrying about her and wondering when she would ever get. After passing a cattle guard, the road was more rocky and she would of easily made it. So close! We considered ways to get her help and spent 30 minutes on the road hoping a car would drive by! No luck. She got herself in a pretty bad situation! The three of us turned back on the CDT on a trail completing the Mt Taylor alternate. We walked another hour or so until we got back on a gravel road. We saw Chocolate Chipmunk wandering around where the water tank should be based on our maps and apps. She had spent over 30 minutes looking even using her binoculars. All of us were almost out of water so we continued thinking another 9 miles or so to the next source. Luckily, the water report was .6 miles off and we found the yucky tire! Paperweight took out his whiskey as we relaxed after a long day. A day of two 11,000 footers and a woman driver stuck in the mud. Funny day!

A few switchbacks to the top

Nightwatch, Hob, Paperweight, Chocolate ChipmunkBam! I made it.The lookoutSide trip up to the top

Stuck in the mud candid shot thanks Paperweight!

Day 32

Our tents were covered in condensation and getting started was tough like usual. We noticed the sediment at the bottom of our bottles understanding how our filters slowed down so quickly. Around 8:10, we wandered back to the dirt road for most of the day. Suddenly, a truck drove by and we waved him down telling him about the lady stuck in the mud. He had already talked to Nightwatch and said he would call her father once he got to town. Relief! He gave us one bottle of water to share as well. Thank you. He continued along going slowly on the road. I spent most of my time trying to find the flattest part of the trail while chatting with paperweight. Large wide open fields on both sides and mountains behind us, to the side of us, and ahead of us. Beautiful scenery and the breeze made the walking bearable as well. We stopped at a muddy pond as I decided to go down and get water in the rock canyon. It was a silly and stupid idea and I spent over 20 minutes finding a safe way down then getting stuck in the mud grabbed nasty green water. I really didn’t need any, but I like being extra hydrated. I managed to twist my knee and ankle which bothered me for a few miles. The three of us took a long break under a shady tree feasting away. We met two new hikers that started May 3rd and they were wondering when we started. 11 days before them! There are many different ways to complete a thru hike and I have found my favorite method. It is important to take zero days and explore the towns along the way. I’m in no rush! We will likely never see them again. Farewell! We made it to the water source which is half a mile off trail one way. Since I was hurting, Paperweight offered to go get my water for me. They were gone for 50 minutes and described the hike down into the canyon the best part of the day. I probably would of loved it, but I had some alone time to type my blog and rest. We continued on for another two hours before calling it a night in the trees. Lots of birds soaring overhead and a relaxed evening with good company as usual.

“Road walks” aren’t too bad!

Back on a trail for evening milesLove these markers!

Day 33

I feel like I’m in a National Geographic special! The morning started off walking along a mesa on a road. After a few miles, we found ourselves at the edge of the mesa looking down over miles of desert. We took a few extra steps to look over the edge before continuing along on the trail. We came to the downhill which is a mix of steep downhill and switchbacks where only managed to fall face forward once. We dipped about 2000 feet to the bottom. The views were spectacular and even included watching two giant lizards fight with each other. All the flowers are in bloom and the smell of sage was everywhere. I slipped falling face forward catching myself with my hands only cutting up one knee. Ouch! The trail led back to a road where we took a side trip out to a water source that tasted like crap. We found a spot under the tree to hide in the shade while staring at toilet paper mixed in with cow shit. So the cows have learned how to use toilet paper or some hiker ahead doesn’t know how to pack it out. LNT! We enjoyed a nice 40 minute break before wandering back to the trail in the hot sun. I got my umbrella, but the wind kicked up and the clouds gave us some much needed shade. We cruised for miles as I listened to a few podcasts and he jammed to his music. We hiked together on and off taking a small break in the shade admiring the cows. The last bit of hiking was so exhausting of just little ups then downs along the gorgeous terrain. We were pooped and managed to lose the trail along the dirt road. We missed a right hand turn and ended up bushwhacking towards the trail downhill. A few of our options included a jump off the edge so we looked closely and found a safe route! Exhausted, thirsty, and ready to camp we came across a water cache from the Mumm family. Thank you so very much. I needed a drink badly. As I went to fill my last bottle, I did not duck enough to fill the water chained to the tree. I jabbed my head so badly into a branch it bleed a tiny bit into my hat. It hurt so bad that I cried! Ouch! No more injuries please! We walked .2 down the trail and away from the road setting up camp around 8. We hiked 23ish miles, but it felt like 30. My head ached, my knee throbbed, and my body craved rest. As the sunset, we said goodnight giving each other a much needed embrace to top of a stunning day of views. To dreamland we went!

First big view in a dayLooking out from the top of the Mesa

Heading down

Huge lizard

Moo!Fence stiles of CDT

Enchanting!It’s a long way down

Sunset view!

Day 34

At 5:30 am, the alarm clock buzzed. Paperweight and I got up to watch the sunrise over the mesa. Wonderful way to start off the day we moved along to the next water source which was little under a mile away where we ran into Nightwatch. We filtered and caught up on our experiences from yesterday. The three of us set off together wandering up and down toward new mesas. We walked up them down them and best of all on top of them. I love walking right along the edge peering down carefully. We cruised along busting out the miles before taking a long snack break admiring the beauty all around us. A few more hours of walking in Mesa land before our next stop. At times, you are walking on sand, huge rock formations, dirt, tiny rock bits, and other times you just hope you are on trail. We took a long break at a nice water source in a canyon. Hiding in the shade we hydrated, jammed out to music, and aired out our feet. I love this life! We got moving along slowly through the land of fragrant sage admiring a huge mesa standing before us. As expected, we slowly made our way to it before beginning a steep uphill. The trail had rebar to hold some of the rocks in place and really impressed me. Thank you to the trail maintainers and whoever designed this section! Impressive. It was a tough climb, but the view from the top followed by a nice leisurely walk atop the Mesa made a splendid way to end the day. We wandered for a few more miles before finding a sheltered spot off the trail. It spit rain a few times but we all managed to set up, eat dinner outside, and relax as the sunset. Another enchanting day in New Mexico.

The only bridge so far over an arroyo

Sitting near the edge

Sunset 

Day 35

At 5:25 am, the alarm clock buzzed as I heard the boys already packing up. We camped to the left of the edge of a large mesa and wanted to hike into the sunrise. We were all on trail by 6:00 cruising toward the town of Cuba. Early mornings and late evenings are magical hours on trail. We wandered down off of the mesa towards the paved road as the sun rose. The morning miles went quickly and before we knew it we were staring at the paved road. We were exactly 9.3 miles to the hotel room from our campsite. Again, I notice the smell of town more and more every road walk and it disgusts me. It’s a common occurrence of burnt oil, tires, and gas followed up by garage littering the side of the road. It makes me appreciate the smell of nature and the beauty surrounding these roads and towns. We checked in the hotel and did the usual hiker thing. We went to McDonalds. No need to shower or anything just feasting. Lots of trays later we did the shower thing and began relaxing. I spent two wonderful hours with Hob talking about trail life, the change in hikers over the years including the disrespect along the trail, and our lives. It was a magical discussion that helped reassure me that I’m exactly where I should be and need to be. His words meant the world to me and I admire him as a father figure and wonderful friend. My three favorite men and I enjoyed a delicious meal at the Del Prado Restaurant next door. The evening was mellow as any town day should be. 

Day 36

Another zero day making it a zero in every trail town so far. Do I physically need a zero? Nope! Do I enjoy zeros? Of course! Is there too much snow in Colorado? Absolutely! Do I need an excuse to zero. Never! The three of us got our laundry done after a delicious breakfast at the Del Prado Restaurant. The day was easy followed up by a quick resupply at the grocery store then lounging in the hotel room for hours. We choose the same restaurant for dinner all ordering green chili cheese burgers. Not the best ones on trail, but they hit the spot. To bed early dreaming of the snow melting in Colorado.

Ah! New Mexico is almost over!